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Mounting wheels on Sheldon Brown 2 º Part

First adjustments radios

Once mounted on the wheel spokes, tighten all the nipples so that each is evenly coiled the radio. This should be done with a screwdriver, preferably electric. A good first step is to tighten the head of each spoke until just hide the threads. If the spokes are a bit short, maybe will be allowed to see a few threads. What is important at this stage is to make the 36 radios are as close as possible to the same setting, all pretty loose. Maybe some are more or less tight, but must also conform to begin. If you find that some are much tighter than others, then check the radiated pattern. With wheels, the joint is thicker than other parts of the rim and maybe will need to loosen a bit the two radii closest to the joint (usually located on the other side of the tire valve hole).

At this stage, the spokes are not straight, but you see that are bent where they exit from the hub. The radios pointers in particular bow out from where they exit from the hub and then bend gradually toward the rim. Before the radios must stress folded by hand to smooth fit well against the sides of the fins of the hub. This is easily accomplished by tightening the spokes one at a time with your thumb at about three centimeters from the hub. If this fails, the radios will be somewhat bent when the wheel finish. Left well, the radios will gradually straightened during the first few hundred miles on the road, lose tension and the wheel will be misaligned.

tensioning and alignment

Now you can take the wheel to the concentrator. With luck, the wheel is already more or less aligned, but it is not surprising if it is not. If the radios are still and let loose the wheel moves from side to side, each leader tighten one full turn. Beginning with the valve hole as a reference not to be missed, turning once complete go to all leaders. Look being tightened and not loosening the nipples.

the screwdriver is easy to know how to tighten, rotate in the direction of clockwise. But get complicated when you first use a spoke wrench, Since in this case working from the back of the watch face!

Keep it up the tension. A complete turn each time until the wheel starts to get tough.

Now with a little tension on the wheel should start putting the wheel shape. There are four elements needed to finish the job review: lateral alignment, vertical alignment, the aparguado and tension. Go ahead always looking for and correcting the mistakes most notable of these four factors as they arise.

Try making an adjustment independently of the other. Turn the wheel in the centering to notice the more obvious lateral deviation. If the tire is to the left, you should press the right fin rays and loosen the left fin. If also tightens and loosens spokes, the wheel can move sideways without affecting alignment wheel vertical. For example, if the tire is deflected to the left, and the deflected point is between two spokes, tighten 1 / 4 turn the right wing radio, and loosen 1 / 4 turn the radio on the left. If the point is offset to the left next to a right wing radio, press this radio 1 / 4 turn, and loosen 1 / 8 turn left two neighboring radios. If the point is offset to the left with a radius of the left flipper, loosen 1 / 4 turn the radio, and press 1 / 8 turn both radios rights law. And set the left shift more remarkable, locate and set the most significant deviation to the right. Keep it left to right, and so on. Do not attempt to completely remove the deviations in the first step, but decrease them and move on. The wheel will be lining up gradually as it continues.

For vertical alignment. First, we must seek the highest point of the rim. If the center of this high point falls between two spokes, tighten the two 1 / 2 turn. If the point falls on a radio, turn the radio press 1 and 1 / 2 turn the two neighboring rays coming from the other wing. We need a more pronounced adjustment to change the vertical alignment of the lateral alignment. Radios should press gently to correct the offset and to increase tension as it progresses.

Once the alignment of the wheel is more or less fixed (with a detour of about 2 mm beyond either side) go to review the aparguado. Aparaguador adjustment indicator on the axle nut on one side of the wheel until the two ends of aparaguador touch the rim. Apraguador then pass across the wheel without resetting the indicator. Aparaguador If the balance on the counter without the ends touching the rim simultaneously, we must tighten the spokes on this side to move the rim. If the two ends touch the rim at a time without the indicator reaches the counter, you have to tighten the spokes on the other side wheel. If it is needed to move the tire more than 2 or 3 mm from the hole in the valve must also be pushing all the right side spokes, maybe 1 / 2 turn each.

already when there are 1 or 2 mm for the right aparguado again focus on the lateral alignment, but now without crossing from one side to another. If you need to move the wheel clockwise to achieve aparguado locate the most notable deviation to the left, set, and then locate the most notable new bypass to the left, and so on.

While going aparguado fixing the lateral alignment and keep checking the alignment vertical and move to fix the vertical deviation when larger than the lateral.

must also take into account the tension on the drive side spokes. There are three ways to check the tension. One is for the resistance encountered by turning the spoke wrench. Be careful as you begin to make it very difficult to turn the leader because he is reaching the limit and not a good idea to wear down the surface of the nipple. Fifteen years ago this would have been the limiting factor and have tried to simply take the maximum tension without wearing the ringleaders. However, the threads of the spokes and nipples modern high quality are made more precision is now possible to tighten over what cause the failure of the rim.

The second way to judge the tension is the tone emitted by radios when pressed at the crossroads. If there is a proviso his studio piano, and has perfect pitch, you can compare the tone with a well built wheel spokes of the same thickness to obtain a more or less acceptable voltage. . Before using a sphygmomanometer, kept a cassette in the tool box that had recorded a F # of my piano, a good reference tone for normal radios in stainless steel. For details on this method, see the article in English by John Allen: Check Spoke Tension by Ear.

The third and best way is with a tensiometer. A well-equipped workshop should have one. The average voltage on the drive side must meet the professional standard for types of radios and used tire. More importantly, uniform. It is not necessary to look too much stress on the left side of the rear wheels. With proper tension on the drive side and a good aparguado, the left side is weaker. Even so, it should look even tension on the left side.

radio Twist

As the wheel is gaining power, we must look at the twist of radios as well. When turning the spoke wrench, twist the radio a little friction with the threads. Turning to some extent, resist the radio, which allows you to rotate the leader, but the radio will remain in this twisted position. What a good editor of wheels can do as opposed to a machine is to feel that torque. A left wheel well, although it is perfectly aligned on the centering of wheels, will become misaligned as I walk the wheel. The twist in the spokes gradually be removed and the wheel is misaligned.

There is a technique you can use to avoid this problem. Must pass the bill and then return. That is, say you want to push a certain radius 1 / 4 turn. Not only turn the key 1 / 4 back, the tour a little more than 1 / 4 turn and then back a bit. Returning the key is achieved by removing the turn of radio and press 1 / 4 back the leader.

radii of uniform thickness are suitable for this because they are stiffer and easier to feel them turn that butted spokes. So I like both radios "aerodynamic", not so much for being aerodynamic, but the fact that you can see when turning. Remove

residual stress of the spokes

Before taking the wheel to the road you have to remove the tensions waste. The radius and the fin of the hub have to adjust and maybe the nipple and the rim well. To do this a whole wheel flex assemblers, other grab and squeeze with one hand while four spokes. I prefer to use a lever to bend the spokes where they cross. I use a left crank arm as worn lever:

This particular technique is advantageous because it makes the bend radii carefully where to go right across the intersection on their own paths. As you perform this squeak the wheel while you are still putting together pieces of the wheel.

After to accomplish this, recheck the alignment, then repeat the process to remove residual stresses until they heard more noise and misalign the wheel stops.

Jobst Brandt, author of the excellent book The Bicycle Wheel highlights a less obvious advantage of removing the residual stresses in the spokes:

"... After the cold forging, steel, highlights a little long (the spokes are forged completely cold wire). Highlight of the material because it has exceeded its elastic limit and some not. The struggle disparate parts in tension and compression, so that when you tighten radius, increase the tension to the limit in many cases.

"... As you bend radii, reach the yield point locally and increasing the tension ensures that these places remain on the edge. Since the metal reached or is approaching the limit of creep fatigue quickly, should ease these tensions so that the radios are made strong.

".. The stresses of yield strength to increase temporarily relieved the stress of radios for sites of high tension in the yield and shape radio plastically in a new position. After removing the residual stresses those sites can not highlight because they have lost, say, memory and voltage drop to the average of the radio. "

If you meet all this will end with a round wheel alignment, and more durable than many wheels mounted machine. Also, there will know a lot about wheel alignment, and feel like a mechanic or a professional mechanic.

Terms:

In this article are 3 terms are not normal because they have not agreed on standard terms in the industry:

• "Radio / ray key. It is the first radio installed in the wheel assembly. The location determines the location of all rays that follow.
• "Radios backs." In the case of a rear wheel spokes defenders are those who become stiffer when the rider uses force on the pedals. They are called "defenders" because they are directed backward from the direction that guides the hub. In the drawings of this article, the radios are the red backs and yellow.
• "Radios pointers. These are the radios that come out of the hub in the direction of rotation. They are drawn in two shades of blue.

radios "defenders" shoot under par stronger transmission to rotate the rim, and spokes "leaders" contribute by pulling less strong in torque transmission. Each group also contributes in its own way to spin the wheel to keep up with the hub.

Some authors refer to as radios backs radio "transmission" or "subject", and radios radios pointers as "tension" or radio "static." These terms may be unclear because all rays contribute to the transmission, all suffer and all hold tension. From their point of view, or all or none are static.

What side fin?

to the rear wheels of bicycles with derailleurs radios must be installed outside to the inside backs of the radial head on the outside of the flap. The reasons for this are threefold:

1. radios go one above the other in the last crossover. Low torque transmission, especially at low speed, the spokes backs straighten and bend radii further pointers. If mounting the wheel with the spokes defenders inside out, the crossing is moved out toward the switch, and certain instances when end-load is hitting the derailleur.
2. load If the chain jumps inside the crown for being poorly adjusted or twisted the switch is likely to be jammed tightly between the wheel spokes and free if the radios are inclined to put pressure inward chain .*
3. If the chain jumps from the inner corona, can damage and weaken the radio that day. If the spokes defenders suffer more stress than pointers, it is better to have them inside to protect them from such damage.

really does not matter how you enter the spokes on the left side of the wheel, but with all the radio stations defenders inside out is a little easier on the radio.

In the case of fixed crown wheel or brake pedal against is better radio the other way because it is more likely that a diverging chain clogging when pedaling backward.

patterns ray

Semi-tangent

classic patterns "semi-tangents" are listed as follows: "3 Crosses", "4 crosses", etc.. For example, crossed 3 means that each spoke crosses 3 other spokes of the same wing of the hub. Most wheels mounted to 3 crossings. Crosses over the spokes leave the hub at a tangential angle. So further resist twisting forces during pedaling strong at low speeds, and braking forces in the case of brake hub. With a low number of crossings rays are almost perpendicular to the flap and the rim.

In the case of irradiated rectum (without crossing) the spokes leave the hub without crossing or once during his career. Employers with fewer crossings use shorter spokes, so they weigh a little less and can withstand a little better lateral forces. Wheels

more radios have more crosses to an angle of radio similar. Are often built 48-spoke wheels to 5 crossings, 40 radios to 4 crossings, 36 radios to 3 or 4 cross, 32 spokes crossed 3, 28 or 24 spokes crossed 2 ...

For exceptionally large hubs, such as a large hub with a tire girl, usually indicate fewer crosses to avoid bending the spokes where they exit from the nipples. For example, the Rohloff Speedhub has 32 spoke holes, but usually Radius to 2 crossings.

Straight Lacing

The radiating spokes of wheels straight (no intersections) right out of the hub. This pattern is only suitable for the front wheels that do not use hub brakes. They look good beautiful, and often they are chosen for their high performance, because they weigh less and, theoretically, might have an aerodynamic advantage.

There are two warnings about the wheels straight radiated. Because the nipples point straight to the hub can rotate easily. In a semi-tangent pattern is less common because the leaders are bent at a slight angle. This ease of turn increases the risk of unscrewing the road. To prevent this, do not lubricate the radiating spokes of a straight, and is a good idea to give you an adhesive radios as Wheelsmith Spoke Prep or one of the milder flavors of Loctite ®.

The other problem possible with these wheels is that due to the fact that the spokes go right fin, can break completely the outer edge of the flap along the line of the spoke holes. It is more likely to happen in small fins hubs 36 hole because there is little metal between the holes for radios. If you fit a second hand hub radiated straight, the indentations made by the original radios can raise the tension to further weaken the fin.

So many hubs manufacturers specifically recommend against radiated straight, and do not guarantee a hub which has radiated so.

For this reason some say that should not use the right pattern for any wheel, so this pattern should be undertaken at your own risk. I noticed that in general go well with good quality hubs made in forging.

If want to risk mounting a front wheel radiating straight, I suggest that you avoid heavy radios and high tension. Since the front wheels do not usually have problems as may occur with the rear wheels do not need a high voltage on a front wheel that contains a reasonable number of radios.

cyclist in folklore to radio right wheels are too "hard" on the road, because the spokes are shorter long rigid spokes on the wheels used semi-tangents. This is a great nonsense!

should never ride straight deDisco braked wheels and drive wheels. The angle almost perpendicular to the tangent of the hub radio makes any amount of torque at the hub of a wheel on a straight fee increase high voltage radios that will almost certainly result in failure of radio or hub .

average radius straight

Today more wheels are mounted "half right". Ie a semi-tangent radiated side radiated straight right and left. The front wheels straight radiated offer mainly aesthetic benefits, but the rear wheels straight average radius can last much longer than conventional batteries that require aparguado exaggerated. Due to the fact that we have to aparguarlas enough to give space to more and more crowns, has increased the number of faults left side spokes rear wheels. Metal fatigue caused this.

A spokes wheel depends on the constant Tenson all radios. A lot aparguado wheel has from the beginning very little strain on the left side spokes. The torque pedaling hard in combination with cyclic loading weight may cause the radios "pointers" on the left side momentarily lose all tension.

Repeated cycles of stress and tension do not cause the build radios fatigue curves and bust.

With an average radius straight, the wheel must aparguar a little less from the beginning if you enter the spokes from the outside in (with the heads on the outside of the fin). Moreover, since no radio "leaders", no amount of torque on the hub can reduce stress on any radio. In fact, if you have an old wheel that has broken many radios left, you can turn the wheel to the mean radius Straight to solve the problem of a good time.

I thought that this was the end and exotic technology, until I chanced a Model A Fords in a parade in the area. The wheels were quite aparguardas in and radiated the same pattern of half straight for the same reason. Middle

straight

wrong occasionally, it radiates half right rear wheels to the right side straight. This is generally done for reasons of improving the clearance between deflector and radios, especially on wheels with thick spokes or fins strange. Such hubs wheels require more resistance to twisting as the radios the left should transfer most of the drive torque.

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